December 30, 2017

New Year's Resolution

I'm really excited about my resolution for this year. I think this will be a productive year for my sewing. I'll try and make loads of fun things to wear and my chosen garment projects will, overall, represent the best of me...... well, that's the plan anyway. Hahaha

Ok, seriously, here's my list:

1. Create a Full Outfit Each Month. This is the same goal as last year except I'm excluding the accessories this time. Store bought accessories just made the challenge more difficult than it needed to be, especially when it came to shoes. Last year I did well in the first few months but then really slacked off. I totally failed to create awesome footwear. I do, however, still have three espadrille wedge kits. I could use them to easily whip something up in the coming spring and summer months.

2. Use Stash Fabric and Patterns. I'm sort of on a buying freeze. I'm hoping to really work through the things that I have already. One day I hope to have all my fabrics hanging in my closet as a finished, wearable wardrobe. Oh my, wouldn't that be fantastic!!

3. Sew To Style Myself. This is totally new for me this year. I've been struggling for the last few years to figure out what my style is and what looks flattering on me. This isn't something that is all consuming but it is a struggle when I am trying to figure out what to sew each month. Over the course of last year I analyzed my features and coloring and have figured out a few things; I'm have a Rectangle (more specifically a cornet) Body Shape, my coloring is Deep Autumn, and I have an Oval Face Shape. Thankfully other people have figured out all the terminology and I just had to figure out what "box" to style myself in. Thankfully, I'm fond of all the styles and colors. I just have to put it into practice.

I need to make a binder of croquis, or sketches, of my outfits!!
4. Wear My Created Garments. I have a serious problem with wearing the things that I sew. Apparently, I don't want to mess them up so I hang them in the closet and there they stay. I'm hoping that Goal 3 will really help me with Goal 4. My first step is to make a binder of croquis, or sketches, of my outfits. That way I can just "assign" myself a Me Made outfit and wear it each day. I seriously need that sort of thing. I just mindlessly get dressed in whatever happens to be at hand, not even thinking about the garments that I have made. I will certainly never be mistaken as a "fashionista".



I hope that all of your sewing projects are going together like a dream.
Until next time, 
Happy Stitching!!

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November 21, 2017

5 Questions, 1 Take Video

Thanks so much to Elizabeth (Elizabeth Made This) for tagging me and and to Lisa (And Sew On) for starting such a fun tag. I've really enjoyed watching all the other seamstresses who have taken part. If you haven't joined in yet, I'm officially tagging you now. I can't wait to hear your answers.




Thanks so much for watching. I hope you enjoyed this short video. It was really hard for me to keep it short in one take. I did my best and I think it went ok.

Elizabeth's Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQ8EXoVywtkSX5MMkzginpg
Lisa's Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDkntjY4mu6dygPSDor1k3w
Favorite Pattern: Butterick B5917

I hope that all of your sewing projects are going together like a dream.
Until next time, 
Happy Stitching!!

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Proverbs 31:27 "She looketh well to the ways of her household, and eateth not the bread of idleness."

November 12, 2017

Week 5 Progress ~ Vogue V8991 Couture Jacket

I decided to keep a running journal for this very overwhelming project. The goal is to write my progress daily and then post it at the end of the week. Read my posts for week 1 here, week 2 and 3 here, week 4 here. Now we can get going with week 5....

Step 41 is a bit confusing at first but basically you just stitch together the center back seam allowance for the lining and the center back seam allowance for the tweed (fashion fabric).

For step 42 and 43 I employed the help of tissue paper. I traced the quilting lines onto the tissue and then pinned it to the jacket back (folding in the darts). I had to fiddle a bit and adjust the quilting lines so that they matched up with the grain line. Then I pinned the lining to the tweed and machine stitched, following the woven design in the tweed. The threads are very thick so this wasn't difficult.

Machine Quilting In Line With Silk Tweed

Steps 44 to 47 are all about attaching the back pieces to the front pieces at the side. First you attach the lining to the side seams of the fashion fabric with a running stitch. Then you machine stitch the fashion fabric at the side. Finally you do the overlap and slipstitch of the lining at the side. This is done using the same slipstitch as last week (See the video in my post). I'm really loving this stitch. It goes very quickly and is practically invisible.

Steps 48 and 49 are preparing the interfacing. I used cotton muslin.

Step 50 is attaching the interfacing to the hemline of the fashion fabric. This step in itself seems very confusing. The hemline is 1" from the edge (as stated in step 2) and the interfacing is to be even with this. Then blindstitch the bottom edge (I totally skipped this step as the hem will be sewn in the next one) and catchstitch the top edge, only to vertical seam allowances. Then use a running stitch to attach the hem facing to the front facing.

Step 51 is hemming.

Now, I'm going to do something crazy. I'm not adding a collar and I need to know how to handle the neckline. So, I'm jumping over to Vogue V8804. This is a similar pattern with a few different features. The directions for finishing the neckline are combined with the directions for finishing the front edge. Before I can start this series, I first need to attach the shoulder seams.

Vogue V8804 ~ Claire Shaeffer's Custom Couture Collection ~
~ Misses' Jacket ~

V8991 Step 56 to 59 give instructions for attaching the shoulder seams. It's a repetition of the previous instructions on how to sew the seam and then finish the lining. I'm really starting to like this slipstich and may be incorporating the technique into future lining projects. It gives a very nice finish.

Now that the shoulder seams are done, I can actually work on finishing the neck and front edges. Basically, I just muddled the two patterns' instructions together (V8991 and V8804) to come out with a turned in hem (fashion fabric) that has been trimmed and then catchstitched to the interfacing. Then the lining is trimmed, turned under, and slipstitched in place. The only back peddling that I needed to do was to unpick some stitches that secured the lining to the shoulder seams and the center back seam.

~ I'm loving how the slipstitched lining has turned out. ~

Picking up where I left off, with Vogue 8991, in step 54 is how to add trim. I have never really decided what to use as trim for my jacket. I'm not really a trim sort of person. I'm rather plain. So the idea of a Chanel style trim is sort of foreign to me. I searched the internet for trim ideas. I like the fringed self fabric trim, and the blanket stitch trim, and even the jackets with no trim at all. In the end, I opted for no trimming. So, I was able to skip steps 54 and 55.

Steps 56 to 59 in V8991 give instructions on attaching the shoulder seams. I've already done that.

Steps 60 to 71 are all about the collar. However, as I already stated above, I didn't want to have a collar on my jacket so I was able to skip these steps.

Next, I'll be working on the sleeves. I've read that there are lots of issues with the sleeves. Please wish me luck in any alterations that I'll need to make. I'm actually looking forward to sewing more buttonholes.

It has become painfully clear to me that I will not be finishing this jacket before Thanksgiving. I won't have time to work on this before Christmas either. Perhaps it will go well enough that I can finish for New Year's Eve.

I hope that all of your sewing projects are going together like a dream.
Until next time, 
Happy Stitching!!
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November 05, 2017

Week 4 Progress ~ Vogue V8991 Couture Jacket

I decided to keep a running journal for this very overwhelming project. The goal is to write my progress daily and then post it at the end of the week. Read my posts for week 1 here and week 2 and 3 here. I took a week off of sewing for family/life stuff but now I'm back and get to start on week 4 ....

~ Week 4 Progress Pictures ~ 

I'm really excited about this weeks work. There's actual construction involved. Before this point it was all about prepping that front panel. I never thought that I would be so excited to sew a seam. Lol

Steps 27 and 28 are a bit of prep work but very minimal. It's simply quilting the lining to the fashion fabric of the side front piece. Just as in a previous step, I skipped the hand basting and just pinned it and then did the machine quilting line. Using silk pins is essential in this step. Otherwise the pinholes would be overly large and the silk lining wouldn't recover.

Step 29 is attaching the front and side front, making sure not to include the side front lining. Again there was basting that I replaced with pins, glorious pins. lol There is also a note to press the seam open. This is quite confusing because in the next few steps the lining is going to be stitched to the seam allowance. I pressed the seam toward the side front.

Step 30 and 31 are pinning and basting the lining to the front piece and then handstitching the lining to the seam.

A poorly lit image of my pinned lining.
That's what I get for sewing in the middle of the night.
The machine sewn line in the background is the quilting line

Step 32 and 33 are attaching the free edge of the side front lining over the front lining. It went rather well, although, I did have to watch a YouTube video to understand how to actually do the slipstitch. Here's the video:



Step 34 is attaching the pocket that I didn't make so obviously I skipped this part.

At this point I know that there are steps missing. While I was researching this pattern I read that the instructions are incomplete as to the treatment of the back. The lining has darts but the fashion fabric (in this case, silk tweed) doesn't. You are supposed to shrink out the fullness. With wool tweed that would work but silk doesn't shrink. So at this point I stitched the darts, by hand, in the fashion fabric.

Pattern Instructions for Darts in Lining

Step 35 to 37 is attaching the back pieces together along with adding the side pieces of the fashion fabric. For the neckline interfacing I used cotton muslin.

Darts and Center Seam of Silk Tweed and Silk Lining

Steps 38 to 40 is sewing the darts in the back lining (I did mine by hand), attaching them and attaching the sides. Yay for all the seam work this week. It's starting to come together.

I hope that all of your sewing projects are going together like a dream.
Until next time, 
Happy Stitching!!

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